Interview with Reiner Knochel
Textile and Embroidery expert + Freelancer for GUNOLD GmbH (producer of embroidery threads).
How did you experience the mood during the fairs?
In my opinion, the mood during the “Premiere Vision” was even more optimistic than during the “Munich Fabric Start”.
Various well-established German brands are under enormous pressure – this was very noticeable in Munich. Whereas in Paris I was very optimistic regarding many opportunities for positive developments.
What colors were demanded for Fall/Winter 2016/17?
As expected, people talked a lot about dark and tonal colors but also about metallic effects in brass and golden tones.
Many designers and buyers are searching for the look of colors as seen on ancient oil paintings.
What kind of articles were required the most from customers?
Still and even stronger than in previous seasons, there was a great demand for thicker threads as for instance GUNOLD’s woolen “Filaine” thread or “Cotty 12″ thread in pure cotton. This thread thickness allows a modern and textured look with only a few stitches.
In contrast to this matt appearance of the thread there is a high demand for shiny, metallic or even glittering yarns, for example GUNOLD’s “Mety” or “Glitter” collection.
How do you see the trend for threads?
In contrast to many other trim collections it is barely possible to present new color cards in thread collections for every season.
It is rather important to use and apply the existing variety of threads and countless available textures, compositions and colors to emphasize and implement current trends.
Designers and product managers are pleased to get helpful tips from experts. In any case one trend is the new and individual realization of embroidery. The aim is to get a hand-crafted look produced by machines – which is possible but needs some good knowledge from experts and professionals to digitize (punching) and embroider these patterns and designs.
What about classic and subtle designs in comparison to fancy threads?
It is interesting to see that there is a demand for very classy and subtle applications as well as for fancy and bold designs.
Classy embroideries are often seen tone on tone with shiny viscose threads as GUNOLD’s article “Sulky”. But at the same time brands want to realize fancy and unusual designs, trying out new effects and thread combinations, mixing techniques etc.
There are inquiries for new interpretations of 70ies patterns but also 90ies sportswear inspired styles.
What is the main area of application for creative threads?
There are many fields of application for embroidery threads and fancy yarns.
Embroidery is of course the noblest way to applicate the brand logo. Furthermore, the different threads are used for a variety of decorative embroideries.
Another ever-expanding sector is the field of ornamental seams. Embroidery threads and fancy yarns are ideal for this. They are creating very appealing and creative new seams which are upgrading and individualizing each garment. That means even with a low effort it is possible to stand out and cause excitement due to well-considered and professionally implemented details.
We thank you very much for this interview and wish you a successful and exciting new season!